Karl's Garden Blog

This article was printed in The Eagle on 13Feb09. Since The Eagle has a bad habit of changing their links and pruning old content, I’m quoting the entire article below to preserve it for my reference.

Planting dates are vital for vegetables

In this area, planting dates may have the most influence on the health and production of vegetables.

Usually, the winter climate is in the middle of plant zone 8, the summer climate in heat zone 9. But temperatures and rainfall may vary considerably from the average.

Local gardeners have had onion crops develop seed heads instead of bulbs because they were set too early or too late. The best time to set seedlings to grow large bulbs is from Jan. 5 to Feb. 5. Green beans seeded in cold soil have had poor germination, damaged or missing leaves and slow growth. Other crops have had various problems.

Gardeners may extend the harvest of each crop when starting one-third of seeds or transplants early, another third in the middle and the last third near the end of the planting period for each vegetable crop. The same will be true later this spring for the warm-season vegetable crops.

Soil temperatures are now about 50 degrees, and that is suitable for all of the following cool-season crops. Cool-season vegetable crops may be planted until the following dates:

• Asparagus — March 15
• Beets — March 5
• Broccoli — March 5
• Brussels sprouts — too late
• Cabbage — March 5
• Carrots — March 5
• Cauliflower — March 29
• Chard, Swiss — April 20
• Collard — March 31
• Garlic — March 15
• Kale — March 10
• Kohlrabi — March 10
• Lettuce — March 20
• Mustard — April 15
• Onions, bulb –too late
• Peas, edible pod — March 5
• Peas, English — Feb. 20
• Potatoes, Irish — March 5
• Radishes — May 5
• Spinach –Feb. 20
• Turnips — April 20

Valentine’s Day is the traditional time to set Irish potatoes in the garden. They could be set on the ground or only 2 inches deep, 1 foot apart and rows 1 foot apart in a raised bed. When planting is shallow and the plants are 8 inches tall, apply “hilling” by covering the bottom half of the plants with soil or organic matter several times as it grows. New potatoes will develop within the hill. Compost is easier to keep moist than soil. Harvesting is easy by digging the potatoes out of the hill. A 1-pound potato is the largest one that I have grown in my garden.

Warm-season vegetables

Now is an excellent time to apply several inches of organic matter (decayed leaves, grass clippings or other plant materials) over the entire area for all warm-season crops. The soil should be friable (crumbly, with space for air and water) for easy root development. Hot-soil temperatures break down some organic matter every summer.

If you are not sure about the fertility of your garden soil, you should have a sample tested (www.soiltesting.tamu.edu) before starting the crops. Garden soils may not need any more phosphorus, and do not apply too much nitrogen for beans, cucumbers, melons, okra, peppers, squash, tomatoes, etc. Too much nitrogen will force excessive plant growth with late and less fruit production than normal.

To learn more about vegetables, try a new variety each season.

Write to Elmer Krehbiel, Master Gardener, c/o Brazos County Office, Texas AgriLife Extension Service, 2619 Texas 21 W., Bryan, Texas 77803. His e-mail address is elmer.krehbiel@theeagle.com.